What is selvedge?
Before denim became widely popular in the 1950s, it was highly valued, rare, and often very dense. Back then, all denim was produced on small shuttle looms, with fabric widths of only 80 cm. Instead of being trimmed, the edge was folded back, preventing the threads from unraveling — hence the term "selvedge" ("self-finished edge").
A coloured thread was woven into the edge — each manufacturer had their own colour. Levi’s was the first to do this, and their red line is now associated with authentic selvedge denim. Later, Lee joined with a yellow thread and Wrangler with green.
Jeans became widely popular in the 1950s, after World War II and the release of the movie 'Rebel Without a Cause'. Production had to catch up: the old slow shuttle looms were replaced with industrial weaving equipment for mass production. Fabric widths doubled to 160 cm, and the edge was now trimmed. While the edge still had to be finished with seams, denim production speed significantly increased — by 15 times.
The selvedge itself does not indicate denim quality — it depends on fibre length and strength, fabric density, and even dyes. However, the red thread, visible on cuffs, side seams, and pockets, commemorates the legendary denim history and supports the enduring trend for authentic denim.
Selvedge is a symbol of craftsmanship and niche manufacturing, appealing to those who value the history and heritage of garments.
Candiani selvedge
12 STOREEZ collections feature selvedge denim by the Italian supplier Candiani. The factory was founded in 1938 in the picturesque surroundings of Milan by Luigi Candiani, initially focusing on workwear production. In the 1960s, his son Primo took over the company, marking the beginning of Candiani's denim legacy. Over 80 years, Candiani has evolved from a small family business into a global industry leader.
At the heart of their success are three core principles: made in Italy, innovation, and sustainable development.
Candiani was one of the first to incorporate high-quality long-staple cotton and alternative fibres into denim production. In recent years, they have also shifted focus to innovative sustainable technologies. The factory has transitioned to fully waste-free manufacturing and reduced water consumption by 75% and use of chemicals by 65%.
For example, denim in our collections is produced using the V-sizing method: instead of polyvinyl alcohol, threads are treated with Canadian organic resin derived from fungi. Unlike synthetic polymers, its "vegan" composition fully decomposes and does not contribute to microplastic pollution in rivers and oceans.
The first Candiani selvedge denim jeans appeared in the 12 STOREEZ collection in autumn 2022. Today, Candiani is our longstanding partner, and garments made from their denim are featured in each of our collections.
In our care guide, we have compiled the most important tips to help your denim pieces last forever.